Managing Realistic Expectations

This morning I had a conversation with a potential client in regards to how my services can help improve her skin. We will refer to her as Jane. She messaged me several photos of herself and based on pictures I recommended a brightening peel and a series of micro-needling sessions. She innocently responded with a simple, but extremely significant question “Do you have any before and after pics of your clients with similar problems as mine.” This inquiry immediately triggered my brain. There were so many ways I wanted to respond to her, because the question (and answer) are both multi-layered in factual and perceptional data.

I had so many thoughts develop to answer this intricate question, based on my professional and personal experience in the aesthetic industry. The summary of my thought bubble is this: it is my job to realistically manage your expectations. Your own beliefs, perspective, and personal actions will contribute to the majority of your before and after transformation. I will break it down in detail.

Firstly, Jane’s verbage indicated disapproval of her current skin as she asked for pictures of clients with “similar problems as mine”. In the pictures, I saw a beautiful woman with a friendly smile, big brown eyes shaped nicely with sharp eyebrows, soft skin that had a few spots of pigmentation, which likely came from pregnancy/stress hormones as she mentioned she had young children. In her eyes, the same picture showed an array of “problems”. She probably saw more things to improve than I did in my analysis, which is pretty standard as we are all our own worst critic. Her physical skin issues were mild in comparison to many, but her perception of her own appearance is what will truly impact the results. For example, I can treat a client with deep acne scars and desperate for any progress, with a 35% texture improvement after a few microneedle sessions they will be ecstatic and love their results. On the other hand, an insecure, self conscious client looking to smooth fine wrinkles may still be disappointed with a major improvement in the lines. That is because this client is always looking for her flaws, she is expecting negative outcomes, she is discouraged, and this impacts her perspective (results). Therefore, results are always shaped by a clients personal self- perception, which is something totally out of the service providers control.

The second factor in any transformation is that I am only a small part of the skin improvement process. When my treatment is done, it is my clients responsibility to follow product protocols and make effort in caring for their skin all day. It is vital for anyone who receives a chemical peel to avoid complete sun exposure for 2 weeks prior, and consistently protect with SPF to keep the results long term. I can perform a chemical peel on two people with the exact same skin tone, one will obsessively wear a hat when outside and apply sunscreen daily. The other will forget her sunscreen most of the time and spend time exercising outside. Their after photos will show far different results because of their own actions and involvement in the journey. You have to meet me half way, we both play a role in the difference from your before to your after photo.

Thirdly, and most annoyingly, everyone responds differently and uniquely to various services. This is a fact of life and it applies to almost everything. My body will not react the same exact way to anyone else when given a specific diet plan, laser treatment,  prescription medicine, or anything that is supposed to trigger a physical response. Genetics and environment play a huge roll in outcomes and this is something out of our control.

Its important to acknowledge all of the factors in your expectations before investing in any treatments. Trying to keep it real with you, and I hope it helps !

Exfoliation Is The Fountain of Youth

Exfoliation is the theoretical fountain of youth.

In the world of skincare and health, Anti-aging protocols focus on one major factor which is exfoliation. For the body and mind, this may be called detoxing. Either way, the objective in aging gracefully is to get rid of anything damaged or harmful on the body. In this post I will focus on why exfoliating the skin on your face will keep you young.

Exfoliation is the removal of dry/dead skin cells on the surface of the skin and is one of the most important aspects of your home skincare routine for face and body. Exfoliation not only helps many skin problems, it also increases blood circulation, which in turn helps you to achieve healthy and glowing skin.

As we age, the process of cell regeneration slows down. This means that the body is slower to shed skin cells and generate new ones. When old skin cells start to pile up on the surface of the skin, it can leave skin looking dull, rough, and dry. Furthermore, the build-up of dead skin cells can result in excess oil and clogged pores, leading to blemishes and acne.

Proper exfoliation removes the barrier of dead skin cells clogging the skin and uncovers fresh new cells below. This opens the way for moisturizing products to penetrate more deeply into the skin, which makes them more effective. In short, a regular exfoliating routine will leave your skin looking fresh and healthy.

There are many ways to exfoliate. The most common form of exfoliation is physical exfoliation, or mechanically removing superficial layers of the skin. This can be done with a drybrush, clarisonic, or with exfoliating cleansers containing sugar or salt crystals, ground up pits or seeds or any other small abrasive particle. It is important to make sure the scrub has uniform sized beads in a smooth sphere to avoid micro tears on the skin.

Chemical exfoliation involves peels or products containing a form of alpha hydroxy acids and/or beta hydroxy acid that dissolve the glue around the skin cells, hastening the shedding of several layers of the epidermis. Other topicals such as retinol, salicylic, and benzoyl can trigger cell turnover and clean clogged pores.

It doesn’t matter which method you use, but you are never too old to stay young via exfoliation.

Stop, Dont Pop!

The picking and popping danger zone

Trust me, as a clinical aesthetician I gain much joy from seeing a perfectly ripe white head extracted from a pustule in all of it’s glory. I enjoy pimple explosions so much that I even when to school to learn how to do it professionally. There is nothing more satisfying than the relief of a painful pimple coming to a head and being squeezed out of its home. The trouble is that most people do it wrong, and the results from popping are much worse long term than just leaving the pimple alone to extract on its own.

Why is popping your pimple such a terrible idea?

A pimple is actually an infected or inflamed pore that has collected excess sebum and led to bacteria growth. When you manipulate the pimple you are actually forcing bacteria into surrounding tissues around the skin while injuring the wall of the pore. The inflammation signals produced by the acne bacteria reach the bloodstream, and the immune system creates more inflammation, not less. What may happen next is a second cyst formation under the surface, where there is already open skin susceptible to outside bacteria. You may actually trigger the creation of a new, bigger, stronger pimple.

Another possible outcome is my personal biggest fear- giving yourself a scar! The pressure applied to a pimple you pop on your own is not the same as having a dermatologist or aesthetician professionally extract it. You are probably using unsterile equipment and breaking the walls of the pimple enough to leave a scab. Also, your skin can actually change colors around your acne. It's called Post Inflammatory Hyper-pigmentation. This is a flat area that's a bit darker than the skin around it. The more inflamed the pimple, the bigger the scar.

So, if Im telling you to leave the unsightly acne alone what are your options to not suffer physically and emotionally? Your goal is to get the inflammation of the pimple as low as possible, and/or kill the bacteria with a gel or cream treatment. My favorite remedy is icing the spot with an ice cube, and then applying a dab of benzoyl peroxide. Other topical remedies include aloe vera gel, milk of magnesium, salycilic acid, or tea tree oil.

THE EYES ARE THE WINDOWS TO THE SOUL

“The eyes are the windows to the soul.” This quote can easily summarize why having  a bright, youthful, awakened orbital area is so important to all of us. However, the truth is that most people are insecure about the appearance of their under eyes for one reason or many.

The skin under our eyes is the thinnest of all that covers our body. This leaves us prone to sensitivity, and biological changes in the appearance of our eyes as we age.

There are several main concerns regarding the under eye area that trigger people into a state of panic and insecurity. The main subjects being: discoloration, puffiness/irritation, and hollowness.  Listed below are the causes and remedies available for each:

Discoloration: Genetics often play a role in discoloration, and if both parents were prone to darkening under the eyes this may unfortunately be your fate your too. Darker ethnicities have pigmentation that is more obvious because of their higher melanin in the skin. There are over the counter lighters such as almond oil, caffeine enriched eye creams, and potato slices with contain antioxidants that naturally lighten when applied over time.

Puffiness/Irritation: This is almost always due to allergies where the sinus passages become blocked, restricting the flow of oxygen and blood, causing vessels to pool up and appear closer to the surface giving off a purple hue. Frequent eye rubbing can cause thickening and darkening in the area as well. Taking an over the counter antihistamine such as Claritin can help clear up this issue.

Hollowness: Weight loss and high intensity exercise can cause our fat to migrate or shift downward in our face, giving the appearance of sunken eyes. Aging can also cause volume depletion under the eyes, resulting in hollowed-out shadows. The best way to plumpen the eye area is with hyaluronic acid filler, or injectables by a licensed practitioner. This is called tear trough injections. It is a risky procedure that much be performed by a specialist.

MY FAV SKIN AND BEAUTY PRODUCTS ARE IN MY KITCHEN

I keep my favorite skin care products in the kitchen.

“Let food be thy medicine”  the beautifully spoken words of Hippocrates.

Im going to update this statement to beauty and skin protocol for the sake of this blog. A modern day aesthetic philosopher, if you will.

Far before I ventured into the aesthetic industry, I integrated natural food products  into my self care regimen. You see, this was not by choice, but rather a serendipitous discovery I made after years of dealing with breakouts, allergies, rashes, and all sorts of weird dermal activity.  My skin is so insanely sensitive and irritable, even the most common beauty products such as bath and body works delicious smelling lotion, would cause me hours of itchiness and red bumps.

One day in my teenage years, after spending a little too much time at the beach (before I knew better) I purchased a bottle of suburn relief gel from the pharmacy. I applied the product to my neck and chest for about two days, and immediately broke out in a cluster of red bumps with little white heads on top. A quick trip to the dermatologist and I was told that I had folliculitis (infection of the follicles) and prescribed antibiotic ointment with a special cleaner. I was told to never use that sunburn gel again because I was allergic. Being that I lived in South Florida I needed to find another option for soothing my sun burnt skin. My investigating led me to a special little plant that would forever change my life. My first organic beauty love- the Aloe Vera leaf.

Since then I have discovered some of the best organic and holistic remedies for skin issues and beauty protocols. Listed below are my top 5

1. Castor Oil for long eyelashes - Castor oil is found to be effective in growing and thickening eyelashes and preventing them from breaking. The oil has vitamin E, fatty acids, and proteins that accelerate hair growth, while keeping the eyelid hydrated and healthy. I apply to an eyeliner brush and place along the lash line at night.

2. Turmeric for breakouts- Turmeric powder for pimples actually helps by removing the excess oil and destroying the bacteria. It is also an excellent antioxidant, which helps in treating pimples and the inflammation caused by them. I mix the turmeric powder with water and apply the paste to each bump, leave for 10 minutes and gentle rinse.

3. Coconut oil for soft skin - Coconut oil is my go to full body moisturizer. It is composed of medium-chain-length fatty acids which provides deep moisture. It helps strengthen underlying tissues and remove excessive dead cell on the skin’s surface. I lather up my whole body right after the shower to lock in moisture.  I also use it as a makeup remover to take off mascara and lipstick.

4. Avocado for strong hair- The oil of avocado is easily absorbed into the cuticle therefore it goes well with dry hair. This creamy fruit is packed with omega 3 fatty acids which acts as an effective natural conditioner and heat protectant. I smash up an avocado and apply it to wet hair, and let sit for up to 30 minutes before I wash it out.

5. Baking soda for exfoliation/whitening- Baking soda aka sodium bicarbonate is a natural mineral dissolved in springs around the world. It’s an organic bleaching and antibacterial agent. I mix baking soda with my face wash to work as a natural scrub and also improves pigment over time. I also add it to my toothpaste to whiten up my smile.

Preventative Skin Care Now vs Anti-Aging Later

When you think about it, most of the products targeting the adult female demographic (30 and up) are marketed to help fix or eradicate whatever assumed destruction has been done to one’s complexion. “Erase fine lines, brighten dull skin, add volume to certain areas” are popular catch phrases on serums, creams, and lotions.  It is almost anticipated that once you have reached a certain number in age, you need to hit damage control and fix what time has taken its toll on.

What if you could hault the entire process of physically aging before it happens to your face? By doing a little bit here and there over the years, you can avoid doing a lot in a short time period. Imagine the time, money, and invasive effort you could save by starting early with preventative care. Its actually true that the earlier you start, the better. There is a stigma around undergoing procedures in ones youth, because of well documented celebrities such as the Kardashians who famously admit to getting injectables in their teens, and now have what some may call an “overdone” look.  However, there is a way to participate in preventative care while maintaining a fresh, natural look. Ironically it will save you from having to undergo a huge transformation once you realize you need to correct the things you have neglected. There are several things you can start now to preserve your skin’s beauty.

1.      Most important preventative step is to wear sunscreen faithfully, day in and day out. You may not realize sunlight is causing a considerable amount of DNA damage to your skin even when its not directly impacting you, such as driving or sitting by a window. There are many formulas available if you are concerned about sensitivity to ingredients in SPF. My favorite is ELTA MD clear spf 46.

2.      Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate, then exfoliate, but do not over dry your skin. Keeping your skin moisturized is absolutely key to preventing wrinkles and irritation.  It starts internally, and this means drinking adequate water, around 2 liters a day. Next step is topical hydration, and I recommend natural oils at night. For dry skin coconut oil is amazing, and oily skin does great with almond oil. Exfoliation is essential for cell turnover, but I recommend only doing this 2-3 times a week for people in their 20s. Up the regimen to 3-4 for each decade. Exfoliating  can be as simple as mixing a teaspoon of baking soda into your wash, or you can invest in a glycolic acid.

3.      Invest in non invasive procedures to naturally stimulate collagen and elastin production such as micro-needling. If you are in your 20’s you can enhance your bodies ability to heal and generate healthy cells by doing micro-needing as little as four times a year. That way, your skin will organically maintain a plump and smooth texture without the need for fillers and injectables later in life.

Wear Your Skin Like a Mood Ring

Regardless of what face wash or moisturizer you are using, or how much your highlighter shimmers in the sunlight, there is one undeniable factor to having healthy skin, and its your overall mood!

Turns out there’s a strong connection between mind and skin, and research is starting to showus just how true this is. The connection between your thoughts, body, and skin health is legit, and there’s even a clinical name for this field of study —“psychodermatology.”

When you are going through personal and emotional turmoil your skin wreaks havoc, and this is due to one main culprit: stress. Stress can affect our body's homeostasis and immune function, while elevating levels of a harmful hormone known as cortisol. This hormone impacts us physically by contributing to weight gain and acne. Under chronic stress, you release hormones that encourage inflammation and decrease blood flow to the skin. The nerves in the skin become irritated, and may increase inflammation or stimulate allergic reactions. Skin recruits the immune system to fight, which can cause inflammation or trigger a flare up for people who suffer from rosacea and psoriasis.  Furthermore, production of moisturizing and plumping lipids declines, leaving your skin dry and dull.

Through my own experience I have noticed times where my skin is just looking blah even though my nutrition was on point and my skin care regimen was top knotch. Why is this? General lack of self-care. Eating poorly, staying trapped in fearful thoughts, and puttingtoo much pressure on myself at work leads for one blotchy-faced Rachel. As humans we all experience ups and downs, and it’s important to recognize the lower times and make an effort to lift ourselves up. I do this by being more mindful, meditating, exercising, spending time with my dog, being in nature, or reading self empowerment books.

Self worth, satisfaction, and overall life fulfillment resonates through your appearance! When you are glowing inside, the whole world will recognize it through your smile, and your skin!